traveling South to the Sahara

 It was going to be a six hour journey, so we needed to be out early.  After the tour of Oran we went to Djelloul's friend's home, not far from Mohamed's and also named Mohammed.  He was from the South and had talked to Djelloul about how he'd love to take us all on a tour of his home region, based in the city of Ain Sefra.  Algeria is huge.  Huge.  When you look at the map Ain Safra barely touches the Sahara desert, at the very edge of it.  But the plan is to go an hour or more further South when we get there, visit some ancient sites.  We're all eager to go.

Friend Mohammed's home, the garden apartment on the left where his wife has planted roses and fig trees.

In their parlour.  Here we meet his family and the friend who has offered his apartment for us to spend the night.

Mohammed's brother-in-law in his  apartment where we'll spend a comfortable night, especially after the long day and the 5 story hike up the stairs.

Djelloul and Mohammed.  And we're off!  

"We take the way across the mountains," says Djelloul.  "Mohammed, he says it's very beautiful."  We pass through several towns first, and I take these pictures from the back window.

Olives!  The area has acres and acres of olive groves.

farmland.

 Now, if you'd asked me what my image of Algeria was beforehand,  I'd have to say brown hills and sand.  The lush green of this incredible landscape in the north blew me away.

 Through the mountains we go, hour after hour, the road climbs higher.  We are heading for a city named Mascara.  (Mah-scah- RAH)

Notice the winding road (narrow, two-lane) around the cliff.  

A white-knuckle drive with breath-taking views.

 Djelloul pulls over and I hop out with my camera.  I wish you had eyes to see the detail of the distand hills 360 degrees around.  We're at the peak of the highest mountain, just past Mascara.  A farmhouse is tucked under the hill here. The farm wife noticed me and smiled.

Several hours in, the land becomes drier. less green.  We're hungry and pull into a Restaurantation.  No misspelling.  Look at the sign.  A few kabobs will do us good.

Most of the restaurants have a place for men and a place for families.  The bathrooms are decent  here, and the food fine.

A cutie-pie and his mom.

Mohammed enjoying the salad and fries and home-made bread.  Everyone has bottled water.

On the road again.  Now it's really dry. We study the map.  These are the Atlas Mountains coming at us.

Naama, charming.  I loved these little school girls.  In Algeria the elementary girls where pink smocks, and the boys wear blue ones.  Girls were lined up like pigeons on a store stoop, but I couldn't snap fast enough.  Every building or fence is made of rock or concrete.  The only way to cheer up concrete is with paint or tile, and Jess says the paint color choices are pretty limited.  People do the best they can.  Also know that driving through towns people have no stop lights to wait for.  Men, women, elderly, mom's with children, walk across with absolute faith that cars will stop for them. Even on four lane highways.  Even on divided four lane highways.  And they get to the other side.  It makes you believe in five prayers a day.

 Red Sahara sand.

This is one of many shepherds with his flock by the road.  

The mountains are past, the land is flat here.  I think they said this water is salty, but I'm not sure.

 Finally.  Ain Sefra.  We get out and stretch our stiff legs.  Mohammed's uncle is there to greet us and welcome us into his large home -- all the second floor of this building.  The doors of the parlor open onto the balcony ovelooking the street life.  Inside is plenty of room for sons and daughters and their families, one of whom runs the baby-goods store below.  "You know, a man, he buy a big place with lots of garages, and if his son want, he have a business there."  They are like garages, with metal gates that come down at night.

Mustafa's house, Mohammed's cousin, greets us (on the left of the pink door).

Mustafa, his son, Madjid, who will be an invaluable tour guide, Djelloul and Rock.

Mohammed and his cousin's grandson

Mohammed is home, and you feel his pleasure at being here.  We''ll be served another feast in their lush parlor.  He and Djelloul will stay here, and we'll be off to the hotel for the night.

And then the adventure really begins.